I remember it like yesterday. A cold morning in Tourmaline, La Jolla, CA, and a clean 6-foot-tall swell came in. I put my head down, and paddled till my arms burned. Then I felt it. My feet began to rise as the back of the surfboard tipped past the point of no return and down the clean smooth wave I went.
It had been weeks, years, really, that I had been working towards this effort. Literally transforming my body and mind to be able to catch the clean smooth glass face of the water. My body reacted with elation, I was on the wave…. But could I get to my feet and complete the magic?
With a swift push and a well-rehearsed pop, I got my left foot out in front of me and made the critical bottom turn which was the difference between a beginner and a seasoned surfer. The board responded, and just like that, I was on the wave.
The moment will forever be seared into my brain, the water reflected the sunrise, and it looked as if I was riding liquid gold. It is honestly one of the most special memories I have, even 10 years later.
I’ll never forget the 6-foot golden liquid sunrise I rode while staring at the Southern California beach that day, and I’d give quite a bit to have that moment of video to relive it.
Dustin – SickPickBro.com